A WEEK ON A TALL SHIP IN THE MED

THE ROYAL CLIPPER

More photos from the trip

(Click on photos to enlarge)

Standing on the top deck, the wind blowing easy and steady, all square sails unfurled, is an unforgettable experience. We were just leaving Cannes, the ship slicing through the water, heading out into the Mediterranean, dark blue seas all around and light blue skies above, with just a few puffy white clouds. You could feel the power of the sails as they captured the energy of the wind.

This is how it is on the 228-passenger Royal Clipper, a tall ship built like the clipper ships of a century ago, but with the amenities you expect on a modern cruise ship.

Our trip actually began two days earlier with a flight to Paris – one of the worst airports in the world. There was no information on connecting flights, no information on how or if we needed to pick up bags to go through customs, inadequate signage on what bus to get or where to get it and where to go when we did get it to find our connecting flight in another terminal, and no ground personnel to help. We did make our connecting flight with minutes to spare and then sat on the runway for an hour with no explanation.

It all got better at our hotel in Nice, the Hotel Massena Nice, just a three-block walk through a park to the Mediterranean waterfront and shopping. The room was nice, we looked out over the rooftops and city from a tiny balcony, and the staff was wonderfully friendly. They even have an internet station in the lobby for guests to use free. (Rates $130 to $160 per day, depending on room and season.)

All morning Saturday we walked the streets of Nice and even found two bargain shoe stores with quality shoes at less than half of their cost in U.S. stores. In the afternoon we were driven along the Mediterranean shore to Cannes where we boarded the Royal Clipper.

That evening we got to meet the officers, staff, crew and some of our fellow passengers. The officers, staff, and crew are international, coming from 24 countries: the captain, Jurgen Muller-Cyran, from Germany, 1^st officer Oleg Tovstokoryl, of the Ukraine, both with much tall ship experience; cruise director Attila Denes, from Hungary, friend to all with his outgoing personality and knowledge of eight languages, and others from India, Philippines, the Caribbean, and various countries in Europe. Captain Jurgen told us that he had gone to sea at age 16, served 28 years in the German Navy, and in case he doesn’t get enough sailing on the Royal Clipper owns a 60 ft. yawl which cruises in the Mediterranean, Baltic, and North Seas.

At 10 p.m. we all went to the top deck to see the sails go up and watch the lights of the Riviera recede behind us as we maneuvered out of the harbor and set sail for the Balearic Islands, south of Spain in the Mediterranean.

That night most of us woke up in the middle of the night to increased movement of the ship and high waves outside, but just turned over thinking “Sailing … sailing”. We learned next morning that we had been in a force 9 gale with 40 knot winds. This ship really sails well and steady.

The cabins  are mostly doubles, with some cabins having a pull-down berth for a third person. All are outside except for six inside cabins. Staterooms on the main deck have a private verandah and a whirlpool. Two cabins on the main deck aft have cabin doors that open onto the deck instead of an inside corridor. Two magnificent owners suites have two double beds, a separate sitting area, a whirlpool, and can be joined with a connecting door.

Sunday – You never know for sure when you sail what the schedule will be – the weather reigns (and some times rains). Today we were scheduled to stop at Porquerolles Island, but the wind was still blowing and we could not safely tender in to port. Instead we had a wonderful day of sailing. We slid along at a comfortable 7 to 9 knots, totally under sail power, no engines, as opposed to some ‘sail’ cruises by others that are almost always under engine power along with sails.

There was a fitness room and movies to watch and a cozy library on board, but most of us just stayed on the top deck and enjoyed the fresh sea air and the joy of sailing. There were games on another deck for the 17 children on board. Families come mostly in the summer and at holidays, and the kids activities soon turn them into friends, no matter what the nation they come from. There was a talk in the forward lounge by Simon Waite, captain of the famous tall ship Cutty Sark, the last of the grand old tea clippers. The ship last sailed in 1933 and now is a museum in London. It was only half as long as the Royal Clipper.

The Tropical Bar at the aft deck is the gathering place when not on the top deck. This is where the musicians play before and after dinner, where late afternoon snacks are served, and where people generally gather. Since many Europeans were on this cruise, there were many smokers. Suggestion to Royal Clipper: keep the smokers to one side of the bar and deck area so others do not have to choke smoke.  Later that night the crew put on salsa CDs for passengers and crew.

Monday – I can’t believe I slept till 8 a.m. It must have been the salsa plus the fresh air and sunshine. After a quick breakfast we gathered around Captain Jurgen at the wheel to learn the weather report and what to expect for the day. we came into the harbor of the city of Mahon of the island of Menorca, the second largest of the Balearic Islands. This was the harbor used by Romans, and later by pirates. It was chosen by Lord Nelson as the base for the British Mediterranean fleet during the Napoleanic Wars. In fact, all of these islands were passed through by ancient peoples – the Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Carthaginians, Byzantines, the Arabs, the Spanish conquistadors. Our tall ship coming into harbor seemed like a glimpse into the past, centuries ago.

The harbor was long, we came past ruins at the entrance, saw the town ahead with picturesque buildings climbing up the side of the hill, and worked our way under power to our docking spot right at the foot of  town . Wide steps went up to the center of town, a local musician playing for coins at the halfway point, with people sitting under the shade of olive trees. We browsed the shops, found some things at decent prices.

We came back to the ship for lunch then went on a bus tour of the countryside and to view a series of prehistoric ruins. From 1500 BC still standing were limestone monuments called taulas, featuring columns topped with large flat table-like rocks, similar to the astronomically significant monuments at Stonehenge.  The countryside was mostly pasture marked off by stone fences many hundreds of years old, scrub bushes, and some olive trees. Main industry here is milk-related, such as cheese and ice cream. In fact there are only about 10,000 people on the island, but 20,000 cattle. Neat sidelight -- the caves in the hillsides, formerly used as burial caves by prehistoric cultures are now used for free housing. We went through a few small villages. One is mostly British, another mostly French, reflecting the fact that the island was the scene of successive conquer by Britain, France, Spain. Homes are mostly summer homes for Europeans, very few people living year-round.

We got back too late for snacks but made up for it at dinner. We sailed out of the harbor in the evening.

Tuesday – We had a beach stop for those who wanted to dip in the Med. There were also banana boat rides for the children (a few adult kids too), and some others went scuba diving. Then we headed for Palma in Mallorca and more sense of history. This harbor was used back in the 2^nd Century BC when the Romans broke the power of Carthage, which had held the islands for hundreds of years. And it was in this Bay of Palma that Jaime I of Aragon defeated the Moors in a battle in which more than 50,000 men died. Mallorca is just another big city. If you have to choose between Menorca and Mallorca for a day, take Menorca.

Wednesday – Today was mast climbing day for all those who were brave enough to climb to the crow’s nest (safety harnesses were provided). Others just took photos, and some climbed out on the nets slung from the bowsprit and lay there bounding over the waves.

After lunch we tied up at the waterfront dock in Barcelona and met some friends of my traveling partner. I used the computer in their loft to check emails and make sure all your requests for cruises were being met. Then we went to the Gaudi Heritage, a wild surrealistic apartment building designed by architect Gaudi that had turrets and parapets and arches that looked like creations from a Disney dream. Other passengers took a tour to see Gothic Barcelona and Picasso, Dali, and Miro art, all of Barcelona.

That night after dinner we had an hour of Spanish Tuna Singers, a centuries old tradition win which university students sang to earn money for school.  They were excellent.

Otherwise, evenings on the Royal Clipper were uneventful and  a bit boring – a crew showing gift shop wear, a name-the-tune contest, silly games

The best part of being on the Royal Clipper was definitely the sailing. Another good thing – the crew and passengers mix – I waltzed with the hotel manager, did a rhumba and cha cha with the cruise director, and the salsa with a steward, and had good conversations with many. Some cruise companies keep the officers and staff isolated from the passengers, such a wasted opportunity to enrich a cruise experience. Evenings on the Royal Clipper meant conversation with many new people, and the beginning of some new good friendships.

We sailed at 11 p.m., with it still being a thrill to see the sails go up.

Thursday – We arrived first thing in the morning at Palamos, scene of many battles through the ages, now one of the famous holiday resorts of the Costa Brava. Some went to the Dali Museum, others played with water skiing and other water sports, others went scuba diving, others went swimming or walked on the beach.

The kids learned knot tying in the afternoon. Activities for the children on board were excellent – a treasure hunt, a water color session with the paintings exhibited for all passengers to see and a t-shirt for a prize. Children did not speak the same national language, but they all spoke the language of fun.

I sampled the spa, getting a treatment while lying on the table listening to music and watching fish swim outside at a viewing port.

That night was the crew talent show, always great on any ship. The Royal Clipper has a singer who should be a singer with the Gypsy Kings … really good.

Friday – We arrived at St. Tropez, some enjoying scuba, others exploring the town. There was a nice outdoor café, and designer boutique after designer boutique, but the streets were jammed with wildly driven cars and motorcycles, the parks were dusty, devoid of grass, and prices were outrageous. I checked out a thrift store and things were even expensive there.

That afternoon on board was more mast climbing, a visit to the engine room with the chief engineer, and a photo session in which passengers were taken by tender around the ship as it slowly sailed with all sails up. That evening was a dance competition, but no one wanted to compete, so Attilla put me through the paces of a cha cha demonstration. A previously mashed toe slowed me down a little bit, but it was great. Thanks, Attila.

Saturday – Departure day. Some lucky people were staying on for a second week. We hated to leave the Royal Clipper – it is a beautiful ship and well run.  The Star Clipper ships have a 70 percent return rate, so maybe we will be back. We leave the ship in the morning, and take the new RailEurope TGV fast (186 mph) train to Avignon where we will stay at the Avignon Grand Hotel and explore this great little medieval town. We will describe Avignon to you and give you some French recipes in next month’s special report on the river boat Cezanne.

Facts on the Royal Clipper:

The ship, built in 2000, is 5000 tons, is 439 ft. long (134 meters), has a beam of 54 ft. and draft of 18 ft. It is a fully rigged square-rigger with 42 sails and 56,000 sq. ft of sail area. There are five masts, and the highest masts are 197 ft. high, with a 19 ft. hinged top section that can be folded down for passing under bridges. It accommodates 228 passengers and 85 crewmembers. There are three swimming pools, a stern marina platform for watersports, a spa with massage and fitness equipment, and a three-tier atrium dining room. There are anti-roll tanks.

The ship is in the Mediterranean in the summer from May until October and in the Caribbean in the winter. There are two Mediterranean itineraries: Cannes to Sardinia, Corsica, Livorno, Prtovenere. Monte Carlo; and Cannes to Menorca, Majorca, Barcelona, Cap Creus, St. Tropez. The Caribbean itineraries go from Barbados to either St Lucia, Iles des Saintes, Antigua, St. Kitts, Dominica, and Martinique or to Carriacou, Grenada, Tobago Cays, St. Vincent, Bequia, St. Lucia, Martinique.

Dining room seating is open, with smoking and non-smoking areas of the dining room. Room service is available. On both itineraries passengers have full access to a watersports program which includes snorkeling, sunfish sailing, banana boats, waterskis and windsurfing. Scuba is extra. Gratuities are extra. Treatments at the spa are extra.

The rates range from $1,445 to $2,695 for cabins, depending on category and season, plus port charges, and an owners suite is $4,465 to $4,695. You can get a $200 discount for early booking, and a $300 discount off the second week if you sail two itineraries back to back for two weeks. Third persons and children sharing with two adults are $445. If you really like to sail with many days at sea, there is value pricing for the two transatlantic crossings for 16-21 nights starting at $1,625.

Michael Krafft is the owner and CEO of Star Clippers and three four sailing ships. He got his first job at age 6 carrying varnish in a shipyard near his home in Sweden, much later practiced maritime law in Sweden and France, and much later still founded the White Star Group in Belgium that commissioned the design and construction of the first two ships of the Star Clippers – the four-masted square-rigged 170-passenger barquentines Star Flyer and Star Clipper. The five-masted square-rigged Royal Clipper was designed after the Preussen, famous German clipper ship launched in 1902 and known as the fastest sailing ship the world had ever known.

The Royal Clipper and the other Star Clipper ships are often chartered by corporations and they are available for meetings at sea as well as for as off-shore accommodations during special events.  A fourth ship is on the drawing board.

Useful links:

Click here for favorite recipes of the Royal Clipper chef   Royal Clipper Recipes

Click here to book a cruise on the Royal Clipper or other Star Clipper ship   Star Clipper Reservations

Click here for photos of the cruise   Royal Clipper Photos

To book on the fast RailEurope train  Planes, Trains and More

To book the Hotel Massena Nice or the Avignon Grand Hotel Planes, Trains and More