South Pacific Splendor
 aboard the Paul Gauguin

With the Paul Gauguin Experience from the time that you make your way through the effortless boarding to the moment that you disembark you experience the ultimate in service and “homey-hospitality.”  On coming aboard we were greeted, offered champagne, and immediately whisked off to our balcony stateroom. Within seconds, our luggage was delivered. Moments later, our butler arrived and explained how everything operated in our stateroom and confirmed our choice for two bottles of liquor, (which are included in the all-inclusive price for this category cabin).

The m/s Paul Gauguin begins its itineraries from Papeete, Tahiti, except for two cruises that depart from Fiji and New Zealand. Our 12-day voyage was to the Cook & Society Islands from Papeete. We arrived a day early in Papeete and stayed at the InterContinental Resort one night in one of their over-water bungalows. Our water-access porch had an amazing view of Moorea.

While in Papeete we took an off-road four-wheel drive island tour and were treated to amazing vistas and numerous waterfalls. Our guide pointed out various indigenous plants that the Polynesians use for everything from healing to spices in their food.

At twilight, we departed on the Paul Gauguin. The next morning, we awoke to the vista of our initial port of call, the island of Huahine. First visited by Captain Cook in 1769, this mountainous island has been a center for Polynesian culture for generations. We explored one of the local reefs aboard an outrigger canoe to a tranquil spot inside a lagoon. Here we were able to snorkel and see a vast variety of Pacific tropicals and our first sighting of some rather small giant clams. It seems they are highly sought as a local delicacy.

After our snorkel, we were treated to a demonstration on how to de husk, clean and sample a local coconut, then back onboard attended a lecture on what to expect in French Polynesia by Bobbie Verdegaal, the ship  naturalist. Her presentations, as well as those given by the three other onboard speakers, were all highly authoritative and informational. 

That evening we experienced our first evening of dining in the main restaurant L’Etoile. This open seating international restaurant had stellar service along with artistically presented gourmet multi-course meals and two to three complimentary selections of wines from around the world. We chose to dine at a table of six or eight, which gave us an opportunity to meet some fellow passengers. With a maximum of 332 guests onboard (our trip had 140) you quickly develop friends and then share stories from shore excursions.

Our next day was at sea, making our way to the Cook Islands. There were many things to choose from on the ship daily activity schedule. I decided to visit the spa for a massage, and then took in a lecture by Mark Eddowes, a noted archeologist. Mark’s talk focused on the marae of Aitutaki. A marae is a sacred place that served both religious and social purposes in pre-Christian Polynesian societies. Mark explained some of the rituals that took place at these stone shrines, many of which were quite bizarre. 

The next day we arrived in Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands. Our day here was focused around The Dive Centre at Aroa Beach, a dive operation directly across the street from perhaps one of the most amazing snorkel or dive sites anywhere in the world. The crystal-clear lagoon was stippled with multi-colored corals and many very tame tropical fish. Later that afternoon we went out to a cut through the reef to free-dive on a site with dozens of spotted eagle rays. The water was gin-clear to the bottom in 80 feet, and horizontally the viz was over 200 feet. Within minutes, we came upon a white sand canyon that appeared to be a cleaning station for numerous eagle rays. As we dove down to interact with these docile creatures we knew we had come upon an extraordinary underwater crossroad of marine life.

Following our dive we marveled at the mountains that rose from the sea, piercing the blue skies and clouds.  This is clearly an island that one could spend a week or two on.

Back on the ship we took in a performance from a local dance troupe from Rarotonga, and had freshly made tropical cocktails to top off the day. With nearly a one to one ratio of staff to guests there was never a time when we were without someone nearby to assist us on any request made. 

That evening, following another fine meal we took in a cabaret-style performance in the grand salon, small in comparison to large ship cruises, however, well done. 

The next day we packed our snorkeling gear to visit the offshore atolls of the Island of Aitutaki. These remote islets, which hang like a pearl necklace from the main island, offer protection to a multi-hued blue lagoon and vast sandbars. The day’s finale was to spend some time on One Foot Island, a remote islet at the extreme end of this atoll, which was one of the locations where the TV show Survivor was filmed a few years ago. The pristine motu “mini island” was the epitome of a Polynesian postcard!  Onshore, the ultra-white sand beach framed the dramatic palms that jutted out in nearly every direction. Thoughts of Robinson Caruso rushed through my head as I circumnavigated the uninhabited island. Just when I thought I had seen and photographed the ultimate beach scene a new one emerged. Then we were treated to a shore lunch of fresh tuna, barbecued chicken, potato salad, coleslaw and baked breads and listened to local guitar players  sing Polynesian ballads. During this trip, we also could snorkel and view truly giant clams, which are quite a site if you have never seen these huge mollusks each with a different vividly colored mantle. This is one shore excursion that should not be missed! 

Soon we were back on board and chose to try an outdoor dining experience at the Grill restaurant adjacent to the pool. This restaurant featured island-themed dishes including a Pacific Moonfish entrée, which was outstanding. I learned that all the seafood brought onboard is fresh, not frozen, and all fish are cleaned and filleted onboard. Meals were prepared only after guests ordered them. For those with salt-restrictive diets onboard or other dietary concerns this was a big plus. 

After a nightcap at the piano bar, and a contribution at the casino, it was time to retire as our ship began its passage back to the Society Islands. 

The next morning all guests went through French Polynesia immigration inspection while we were underway to our fourth destination, Bora Bora. Activities during this day at sea included tapa painting, a cooking demonstration, napkin folding, a digital photo seminar, a galley tour, plus three enrichment lectures covering “Sharks of French Polynesia,” “The Human Settlement of Oceania,” and  “Tourism and Climate Change” by Nobel Peace Prize Winner John Hay. Later there was a Tahitian Country Fair, with skill competitions for the guests to win spa treatments and other prizes. 

There is nothing quite like awakening to a view that makes you say WOW!  Welcome to Bora Bora. The dramatic sight of the eroded volcanic cone just outside our balcony prompted a request via our butler to have breakfast on our balcony. Perhaps one of the greatest memories from past cruises is beginning the day on one's balcony overlooking a testament to the word beauty.

Our day in Bora Bora began by visiting a few of the local shops … pretty basic stuff, t-shirts, and many pearl shops, and we found the shops a bit dusty and drab. We caught a taxi and off we went along the perimeter road to Matira Beach. As we made our way down the beach we realized we were the only ones on the beach. At the end of the beach, we crossed the road and entered the beautiful Bora Bora InterContinental Resort with its over-water bungalows set among the varied shades of blue in the lagoon. Bora Bora was an overnight two-day stop for our ship, and was one of the properties where you could stay overnight as part of a package that was offered. 

That evening our table attempted to play ‘stump the staff’ with after-dinner liquor requests. Everyone received his or her specialty liquor, and all part of the value an all-inclusive cruise, without the hassle of signing numerous checks. 

Our plan for the second day on Bora Bora was to go to the private Motu that the ship tenders ran to throughout the day. Here we enjoyed volleyball and the kayaks that were free to use for all guests. Just offshore of this palm-lined island was a magnificent reef that offered some fantastic snorkeling. Large coral heads in an area about the size of a football field provided much to explore. The full-service bar offered a wide variety of tropical and traditional drinks. However, soon the thought of a cool shower in our stateroom beckoned, so we made our way back to the Paul Gauguin. 

The following day we arrived at the island of Taha’a, commonly called the “Vanilla Island” for its numerous vanilla plantations. We had scheduled a drift snorkel shore excursion. We were taken by boat to islands that had a tidal channel running between them. We were asked to walk through some shallow water and along a path to the end of the island.  Here our guide collected our sandals or reef shoes into a mesh bag, then we snorkeled through a maze of coral, all the while being pushed by the current. The corals were pristine and constantly unique formations would appear as we floated effortlessly through this fairyland of vivid corals and tropicals. Then we were escorted back again for a second run. On this run, we found some hidden lairs of anemones and clown fish.

Following this excursion our captain brought us to Motu Mahana, a private island that the cruise line leases.  Here we were treated to an elaborate lunch and drinks made in a freshly cut coconut. A floating bar set up out in the water served up refills. Local women were selling an outstanding selection of local jewelry, vanilla, and hand-painted pareos.     

The snorkeling here was also good. Snorkeling gear throughout the cruise is provided to guests free of charge. But you should bring a pair of reef shoes to protect your feet from sea urchins or other creatures that camouflage themselves on the sea floor. 

That evening we decided to try La Palette, the French cuisine restaurant on board, with classic French dishes prepared with great artistry, then went up to the disco on the aft top deck. You can dance inside or out under the stars, to the music of a four-piece band, or to the DJ’s tunes.  La Palette was one of our favorite places to visit during the cruise, from the continental breakfast that was served there each morning to just a respite for having a drink and unwinding. We would find ourselves here more than once the next day as the ship dropped anchor in Moorea, as the panoramic view from this deck was breathtaking! 

It was easy to see why the ship's marketing department would choose this placid location as an overnight destination. Our anchorage was in Cook’s Bay, which was used in film productions such as Bali Hai, Mutiny on the Bounty, South Pacific and other movies. Here jagged peaks topped by puffy clouds lay in contrast against the deep blues of the ocean and sky, which framed them like a classic Polynesian painting. 

On day one in Moorea we took a mini-bus sightseeing tour of the island. To say that the locals are friendly is an understatement. As a resident of Florida, and loving the tropical lifestyle it offers, I can say that this would be one place I could see either living or spend extended time visiting. 

Back on our ship preparations were underway for Polynesian Night, including a lei-making presentation by several locals. Some of Moorea’s fresh-cut flowers were transformed into beautiful leis, which were handed out to passengers. Local musicians and a dance troupe highlighted the evening.   

On our second day in Moorea we visited the Richard Gump South Pacific Research Station, which had a restoration project underway of one of the classic Polynesian wood catamarans that had been used to transit islands in the Pacific. A highlight of the excursion was our visit to the Kellum House where Mari Kellum greeted us and spoke of the history of Opunohu Bay. She described events from the first landing of Captain Cook in 1777 to how her father arrived here via a 170-foot schooner in 1924, and showed us several archeological finds that have turned up on her property over the years. 

Back on the ship, we decided to take a kayak out from the watersports deck. These are available for an hour at a time or slightly longer if there is not a demand for their usage. Several passengers had used the ship inflatable boats to SCUBA earlier that day. We kayaked across the bay, and decided to snorkel the reef. The first thing I saw was a spotted eagle ray cruising the coral heads less than 10 feet away.

Back on board once again we were just in time for the afternoon canopies that were delivered to our room each day. Tired, I asked our butler to bring us a couple of drinks from the bar. As we sat sipping our drinks in the salon of our cabin with the fresh fruit and orchids that were supplied daily, we reflected on what an amazing experience this cruise had been.

Later that evening at the farewell party we said our goodbyes to those we had met during the cruise.

The next morning disembarkation was a breeze. We were leaving our “home at sea”, a bit sad, but the positive memories of this amazing cruise will last forever!

                                                                                                                                                    -- Dale Sanders
                                                                                                                                                        www.SmallShipCruises.com