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By Michelle Flint and Bob Linde                                            Article two

YOU MAY NEVER SEE THIS VILLAGE

     As we stepped out of our two launches some hundred children swooped down the embankment to greet us.  They ranged from 2 to 12 years of age and were dressed in a hodgepodge of shorts, smocks,  dresses, and T-shirts. Some rushed up immediately, waving and shouting Buenos dias. Others hung back, excited and curious, but shy at seeing  30 Americans visit their village.
     This was Mount Sinai, a small, isolated community on the Tapiche River, an Amazon tributary. Like other villages on the river, Mount Sinai had no electricity or running water, but the village was clean and neat. Our tour guides, Juan and Edgard, introduced us to village elders and showed us around the village: the church, the school, the plantain trees and rows of clean, open-air houses. The children moved with us, fascinated by the tall, fair-skinned visitors who spoke varying degrees of halting Spanish with them. They were obviously not accustomed to tourists, and we began to feel less like intruders into their private lives and more like ambassadors from another culture.
     This is by design at International Expeditions, an American-based company that specializes in global ecotourism. International Expeditions is the only tourist company running cruises down this tributary of the Amazon River. Its two cruise boats, the Tourmalina and the Esmeralda, rotate their village visits along the river, each village receiving visits no more than once every month or two.  This, Juan explains, is to keep the villagers from becoming economically dependent on tourists. At Mount Sinai, villagers farm, hunt, raise chickens and weave thatched roofs, which they sell to other villages along the river. The roof panels are strong, leakproof and last for years.  Craftsmen showed us their work with great pride.
     We gathered back at the school, which had finished classes in time for lunch and afternoon sports such as soccer. Judy, a travel agent from California, had brought  gifts for everyone.  But first, Edgard explained, they wanted to show us something from their culture. The children sang Como esta mis amigos, (How are you my friends) a call-and-response song which required our tour group to sing out Muy bien! (Very good!) several times. When they asked us to sing to them, we managed a round of Happy Birthday before they joined in, in Spanish. Soon everyone was laughing or giggling, depending on height.
     When it was time for the gifts to the children, they stood in practiced rows, hushed with excitement. Edgard passed out plastic whistles and tiny American flags on toothpicks. And soon  we heard whistles shrilling from every corner of the village. Judy’s husband, Brian,  bet they would be confiscated as soon as we left.
     After a couple of hours, we headed back to the Turmalina , feeling we had made some friends. Whistle-songs followed us down to our powerboat. If you cruise the Amazon with International Expeditions, you may not see Mount Sinai, or meet these children. But you will have the pleasure of meeting people from another village somewhere along the tributaries of the Amazon. And International Expeditions has ensured that they will take pleasure in meeting you, too.

 Article Two -- ACEER--Careful what you wish for...

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